Slow Cruise

Allans Cays was our first stop in Exumas. This popular place is quite pretty, and is known for its iguanas.

Enjoyed few days here - swimming, visiting iguanas, playing with friendly birds, walking cay's beaches and exploring its small islands.

Highborne Cay is a private island - you can go to marina to get fuel and visit small store and restaurant, but the cruisers like us are not seem to be their target clientele.

Needless to say, we didn't feel welcome there. So we got some supplies of fresh (and expensive) produce at the store, had a mini-stroll around to stretch our legs, topped-up our water tanks (at $0.50/Gallon!) and left the cay after staying just one night.

Normans Cay is a beautiful and interesting spot. We happen to be there at the time of my birthday and 25th anniversary of our marriage.

It turned out to be the best place and time we had so far during our cruising journey!
We suntanned, walked along beautiful beachside at low tide, explored island's jungle paths, found a breathtaking hidden beach and abandoned ruins, dived around the crashed airplane, and at the end of the day we had a nice dinner.
Pictures worth thousands words...

I have been told about Shroud Cay as one of the most interesting places in the Exumas. What make it special are numerous shallow mangrove channels inside the island which can be explored by dinghy. Some channel branches lead to nowhere, some lead to a sudden enclosed lake, and some lead to an ocean beach on the other (Eastern) side of the island. It is a unique place - we enjoyed staying couple days here.

During our stay, there was a clear cold front passing just over us - clouds looked really intimidating.

The Hawksbill Cay is a short sail south from the Shroud Cay. We arrived earlier and had a full day to explore the island, walk its trails and climb atop of the hill to enjoy beautiful panoramic views.

Later we had a pleasant sunset picnic at the beach.
On the neighbouring beach (yes we had separate beaches), there was a party from the superyacht anchored nearby - in Bahamas, you don't need to be a millionaire to have your own secluded tropical beach to play and enjoy the same sunset views.

Today, we sailed to Waderick Wells Cay.
He wind was on the nose most of the time, so we tacked few times, keeping closer to the islands for the protection from wind and waves.

The Exuma Sea and Land Park headquarters are located here on the Waderick Wells Cay.
It is an interesting island to explore, with trails, beaches and snorkeling reefs, but as with all of the park's islands, there are no amenities - no services, provisioning, water, even no public toilet. But there is protected nature - bare, rugged, mostly unspoiled and beautiful.

Also, had an opportunity to snorkel coral reefs not far from the pace we have anchored.

We happen to be stuck at the anchorage here during passage of the cold front, so we spent another two nights and a day riding waves in the boat - not pleasant.

Taking it slowly, one island at a time... Next stop - Cambridge Cay.

Chosen this Cay instead of a more popular Compass Cay nearby, mainly because of shore access (Cambridge Cays is still part of the Exumas Land and Sea Park where one can roam around, Compass Cay is private and shore access is available for marina guests only).

Spent could days here, anchored by the nearby Bell Island. Nice hiking around the island, climbing rocky shoreline trails, beautiful views.
Larysa baked Rum Cake.


The Cay is known for good snorkeling sites nearby. Unfortunately, the weather was to rough for snorkel safe and pleasant.
It turns out it is unusually cold and windy this year in Bahamas.

Staniel Cay is the first settlement we have encountered in the Exumas where there are some services available and cruisers like us are hanging around - it has a yacht club/marina, some provisioning (Blue, Pink and Isles stores), airport, restaurant, couple bars, laundromat, other basic facilities.
It's a nice small settlement.
Met some cruising couple from Ontario - they spent winters in this area.

Anchored in 3 spots during the stay: near the famous Thunderball Grotto rocks (featured in James Bond movie with the same name), between the Majors (protected us from strong westerly winds during the cold front, but has strong current), and west of Big Majors Spot (crowded).

Hiked the island, visited beaches (one with semi-wild pigs), stayed at the bar, lunched at the cafe, did laundry, provisioned, snorkeled in the Thunderball Grotto cave, and just hang around.

Anchored 2 nights at the Bitter Guana Cay. Beautiful spot, nice beach, iguanas. Good memories.

Black Point is another spot popular with cruisers. It is a low-key Bahamian settlement, with some government services, few stores and restaurants, free RO water sprout, few wi-fi spots, and a welcoming community with friendly locals.

The anchorage is fine en Easterly winds, however is very uncomfortable / rolly otherwise. The Westerly winds are a well known trouble here, and there are no hiding spots nearby. Also there is no fuel.

Anchored in the main harbour for a week - explored the island, spent time on the beach, did laundry, tasted local food, provisioned, and generally had a good time. Fishing (trolling lure behind the dinghy) was successful too.

A two-night anchoring in a small cove along the Great Guana Cay. Had a cove to ourselves.

Walked to another (Easterly) side of the island, found another cove where flotsam garbage gets collected on the beach thrown by wind and waves. So sad to look. Unfortunately, it's a common scene.

Had time to catch up with some work.
Tried fishing by trolling from the dinghy along the shore - no luck.

Little Farmers Cay looks like a pretty place - picturesque harbour, with dock and some shore shops and restaurants.
Unfortunately, the harbour is mostly shallow, not many places to anchor. Most (pretty much all) places on shore we’ve encountered were closed, (would open upon request...).
Surprisingly, not may cruisers encountered.

As with many Bahamian islands, there are ruins of neglected, abandoned, and not finished buildings around.

Anchored on opposite (West) side of the island. Stayed couple days here, exploring the island, talking to locals, visiting sores, and enjoying the beach.

A quick overnight stop on the way south to the George Town, while a suitable weather window lasts.
Sharing the bay with several other boats which follow the same (North->South) or opposite (South->North) route.

There used to be a NOOA marine research center on the island - now closed, place is abandoned and sold privately.
Wanted to explore the place, landed dinghy at the dock but encountered "Private Property - No Trespassing" signs, so had to come back.

George Town, Great Exuma is the terminal destination for many cruisers who come to Bahamas for the season. This is a friendly place with many activities and places to spend time for the cursing sailor. You can be as active or as humble as you want.
And of course, you've gotta chill out at Chat'n'Cill and play volleyball on the Volleyball Beach.

The place also has pretty much all the facilities cruiser needs - provisioning and supply stores, fuel, free wi-fi internet and R/O water, restaurants/bars, banks, international airport, some repair and other services.

By observation, there are approximately 50% American boats, 40% Canadian and remaining are from other parts of the world.

Anchored in couple places around Elizabeth harbour (Monument and at Regatta Point anchorages). It is a long and could be wet dinghy ride from Stocking Island to town.

We have a great time here - too much to mention, see the pics.

Just an overnight stop on our way to Salt Pond, Long Island, staging our early morning departure.
Had a nice snorkeling trip to the reef nearby in the evening. Took my home-made spear in hope to nail some fish, but it didn't happen, so no fish for the dinner.